Thursday, 17 December 2009

Surfing's Holy men

Are you one of Suring's Holy Men? Are Soul Surfers not the Holy Men of the Ocean? In the article
A SOCIOLOGICAL STUDY OF THE SURFING SUBCULTURE IN THE SANTA CRUZ AREA  Stephen Wayne Hull suggests that there are 3 types of elite surfers, 1 the professionals and
"A second group of surfers who are members of the surfing elite are the Gypsies. These men are often interchangeable with the professionals. If the professionals are the most envied men in surfing, the gypsies are the most admired. They are the men who through choice, or slightly inferior skill, live only to travel and surf. They are the "holy men," the moral examples of surfing. They often live in their cars or on the beach, take on jobs when they need the money to eat, and move on. Their quest for the best waves, solitude, autonomy, and tropical luxury are at the very heart of the surfer's dream. The cost to the gypsy is high: a low standard of living, an insecure future, and relatively few intimate traveling companions.

The third group are generalised as the 'Hardcore' "completely committed to the sport of surfing and its culture. Surfing is more in the realm of a religious experience"

I'm in the catalogue of the wandering Gypsy, exploring far off islands alone, equipped with survival gear like an old timber canoe, fishing line and hooks, hammock, bush knife and books, water containers, boards and coconuts.. Life on the edge of existence is more real than you can ever comprehend living inside the circle of conformity and comfort, of routine and normality.  

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